Highland Park 12 Year Old

Highland Park distillery is the most northerly whisky distillery in Scotland, situated in Kirkwall in the Orkney islands. It’s roots can be traced back to 1798 when Magnus Eunson ran an illicit still in the high park above the islands’ largest settlement.

By all accounts, Eunson was a bit of a character. A church official by day and a smuggler by night, he was heavily involved in the production and transportation of illegal spirits, leading to countless run-ins with the excisemen of the day, some of which have gone down in folklore…

In his 1887 book ‘Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom’, Alfred Barnard tells how Eunson, upon hearing that his church was to be inspected by Gaugers, transported his barrels to his home where he arranged them in a row, placing the lid of a coffin on top and throwing a white sheet over the lot. When the excisemen found the church empty they made their way to Eunson’s home only to find the entire household on their knees, deep in prayer around what appeared to be a coffin. As they entered the property Eunson, looking their way, made the sign of the cross and whispered ‘smallpox’. Needless to say it was a while before the excisemen found their way to Orkney again.

It is impossible to tell how much of Magnus Eunson’s life as we now know it is fact or fiction, but with stories so entertaining it scarcely matters. What we do know is that a group which included John Robertson (the man who eventually arrested Eunson) and Robert Pringle (an exciseman), bought the High Park estate in 1813 and founded what is now the Highland Park distillery.

Today the whisky made at Highland Park is among the most coveted in the world, as desirable for collectors as it is for connoisseurs. Their 12 year old is one of the finest entry level options on the market and was even described by whisky writer Michael Jackson as ‘the greatest all-rounder in the world of malt whisky’. Indeed, it was a dram of 12 year old Highland Park which set me on my own whisky journey some years back.

The ScoresAbout the Scoring…

Smell: 17 / 20. Heather, Honey and Malt, with Caramel and Fragrant, Floral Peat Smoke. A touch of Apples and Pears.

Taste: 17 / 20. Honey and Caramel, underlined with Peat Smoke and plenty of Pepper. Touch of Apple, Lime, a little Creamy and a little Spicy.

Value for Money: 8 / 10. I rarely see HP12 selling for more than £30, yet the quality remains high despite the low price.

Overall: 42 / 50.

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