Hallowe’en 2017: Cu Bocan 2005 Limited Edition

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The trees are starting to shed their leaves, the nights are growing longer and the air turns icy cold as All Hallows’ eve approaches, bringing with it all the black things of the night. Yes, the time has come once again for WhiskyReviews.net to peer into Scotland’s darkest corners and unearth another eerie tale from one of the countries many whisky distilleries…

Tomatin distillery was founded in 1897 but closed after just 9 years in production. New management arrived in 1909 however, and the site was rejuvenated. The decades that followed saw expansion after expansion until Tomatin had become, by 1974, the largest malt distillery in Scotland, with 23 stills and a 10 million litre capacity. The distillery rarely, if ever, ran to capacity however and by the 1980’s, times had grown hard. 1985 brought liquidation and the future for this former giant appeared bleak. Then, a year later, Takara Shuzo and Okura & Co, two Japanese companies working in partnership, came to the rescue. The Tomatin stills were reduced to 12 and the focus shifted from the bulk production of blend fodder to the bottling of single malts.

In 2013, Tomatin announced the release of their first ever peated expression, which would come to be named ‘Cu Bocan’ – the Ghost Dog. Behind this expression lay an old legend that tells of the last Wolf in Scotland and of MacQueen of Findhorn, a legendary deer stalker, hired by the Laird of Clan Mackintosh to hunt and kill the beast responsible for the deaths of two children in the hills near Cawdor. MacQueen tracked down and destroyed the great black wolf in Tarnaway Forest, taking it’s vile head to the Laird as proof that the beasts reign of terror was at an end…

Or was it…

Today, lonely walkers on the road at night catch fleeting glimpses of shadows in the trees and shiver to think they are being watched. Some report animal tracks in the snow, larger than any dog and others have been driven mad with fear by the bloodcurdling howls that pierce the night air. One traveller, passing near to Tomatin distillery in the dead of winter heard a growl in the dark and froze where he stood, paralysed, as though some hellish beast were drawing ever closer, when the terrible moment came that he felt it’s foul breath upon his neck, he spun, ready to face his fate, only to see nothing, but the empty road stretched out ahead of him…

Like one, that on a lonesome road

Doth walk in fear and dread,

And having once turned round walks on,

And turns no more his head;

Because he knows, a frightful fiend

Doth close behind him tread.

 – The Rime of the Ancient Mariner by Samuel Taylor Coleridge, 1798

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Smell: Burnt Toffee and Wood Smoke with Lemon and Malt, Honey and Fudge with Liquorice and Blackcurrant.

Taste: Smokey Bacon with Caramel and Honey, Forest Fruits, Pepper and wisps of Subtle Smoke.

Value for Money: For around £50, you’re getting a whisky matured for 11 years and bottled at 50% abv, with no colouring or chill filtering.

Score: 44 / 50. About the scores…

Full of subtle complexities, the hint of smoke never lets up but nor does it dominate or overpower. A very pleasing whisky for a good price and an ideal dram to celebrate Halloween.

For more on Tomatin…

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