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Kilchoman and Loch Gruinart

Loch Gruinart is a sea loch on the northern coast of Islay. A narrow stretch of land separates it from Loch Indaal to the south. Were the two lochs to meet, Islay and the Rhinns peninsula would be two separate islands. The Rhinns is home to the villages of Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte, Portnahaven and Port Wemyss as well as the Bruichladdich and Kilchoman distilleries, the latter of which produced the whisky featured in this review. In 2020, Kilchoman launched the Loch Gruinart Single Malt as an exclusive bottling for a French supermarket but in late 2023, the whisky appeared in Scotland (and across the UK) as an exclusive to M&S supermarkets. Bottled at 46% and priced at just £35 it seemed a tempting prospect.

Loch Gruinart is an area of great natural beauty and home to countless species of wildlife. A section of the lochside, known as the Gruinart Flats, is a nature reserve, owned by the RSPB, according to whom, the site is regularly visited by Greenland Barnacle and White-fronted Geese as well as Corncrakes, Hares, Hen Harriers, Otters and Lapwings. Visitors can birdwatch or walk and cycle signposted trails throughout the reserve. However, the history of the loch tells a tale, not of natural beauty, but of warfare and bloodshed.

In August 1598, Gruinart was the scene of a fierce battle between Sir James MacDonald and his uncle, Sir Lachlan Mòr Maclean. Islay had belonged to Clan MacDonald for generations but Lachlan believed his claim to the island to be greater than that of his nephew. In attempt to resolve the disagreement, James offered his uncle half of the island until the day of his death but MacLean refused and sailed into Gruinart with 1000 men and the express intention of taking the land by force.

James MacDonald had a smaller number but his men were well trained and he was bolstered by reinforcements from allies in Kintyre and Arran. He instructed his men to feign retreat in the face of the larger force but all the while he was leading his enemy into a blindspot where they would have to fight with the setting sun in their eyes. The MacDonalds turned and fell on their enemies, killing hundreds and sending the rest to flee for their boats. Some of the MacLean men sought refuge in the chapel of Kilnave but the building was burnt to the ground with the men still inside.

It’s often said that there are no winners in war and so it proved at Gruinart. The MacDonalds appeared triumphant but Sir James was found dead on the field, as was his uncle with whom the feud had been fought. Exasperated by the behaviour of the western clans, King James VI, stripped them of the land and instead awarded the territory to Clan Campbell, a decision which only served to further fuel the fires of dissent in the MacDonalds and created further conflict between clans – but that’s another story.

The Whisky

Loch Gruinart is a supermarket exclusive release that debuted in France in 2020 before appearing in M&S Supermarkets in Scotland in late 2023. It’s a no-age-statement release and comes bottled at 46% ABV.

Smell: The nose typifies young Islay malts in many ways. There’s notes of bonfire smoke and pebble beaches with seashells and seaweed and the smell of brine in the air. There’s also some light cereals, a wee bit of vanilla and some buttery shortbread with some black pepper seasoning. Wee bit of fresh oak in there too and some soft citrus. Young, fresh and vibrant but still smoky.

Taste: On the palate, there’s a nice pepperiness with a distinct oiliness in the mouthfeel. There’s some new oak character and a touch of orange marmalade and runny honey. Towards the back there’s a distinct note of liquorice before a puff of dry smoke.

Thoughts: It’s a decent example of a young Kilchoman but its big problem is the irresistible comparison with the core release, Machir Bay, which is only slightly more expensive. Without tasting them side by side, and basing my opinion on memory alone, I’d have to concede that this seems to lack some of the complexity of the other. Especially around the mid-palate, there seems to be a bit of a lull and the overall experience relies more heavily on the peat. On the positive side of things, the marmalade and honey notes worked well with the oiliness of the spirit to give it a feeling of weight and quality and the familiar Islay peat does exactly what you expect it to, I just can’t really envision a situation where I’d choose it over Machir Bay. If, however, it manages to tempt new people to sample Kilchoman, it should be good enough to give them an idea of what this characterful wee distillery is all about.

Price: £37. Good price, though personally I’d pay the £5 – £10 more for Machir Bay. It’s nice to be able to try a slightly different version for such a reasonable price though.

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