WHISKY REVIEWS, NEWS, HISTORY & FOLKLORE
The Glengyle / Kilkerran Story
Glengyle distillery, producer of the Kilkerran single malt, has a long and intriguing backstory, the latest chapter of which, began with its revival at the dawn of the new Millienium. The distillery’s true beginnings, however, occurred a long time prior. All the way back in 1872, to be precise.
The story begins with William Mitchell, who helped run Springbank distillery – and a local farm – with his brother John, until a fallout over some sheep set the siblings on separate paths. Springbank was established by their father, Archibald, in 1828 and William decided to follow that example by starting a distillery of his own. Glengyle was up and running by 1873, as reported in the the local press…
“The fine new work erected by Messrs William Mitchell & Co., at the Roading, has just been completed, and the Messrs Mitchell have commenced mashing and distilling on the premises. The work has been built on the newest and best principles, having ample accommodation in all its departments, and all the latest improvements in the machinery and the various utensils used about a distillery have been adopted. With this new distillery, we have now in Campbeltown twenty distilleries in full working order. Notwithstanding that there are so many, they are all as busy as they can possibly be. From the fact that it is next to impossible to get a drop of real old whisky in any of the distilleries, except what has been previously ordered and bonded, it is clear that the demand for Campbeltown staple produce is at the present moment very great indeed.”
William Mitchell passed away in 1887. His loss was felt deeply throughout the community…
“lt is with regret that we have to-day to record the death of our respected townsman, William Mitchell, Esq., which took place at his residence on the 24th inst, in the 69th year of his age. In early life Mr Mitchell, along with his brother, Mr John Mitchell, Lochend, commenced the business of distilling, and their firm was one of the most successful in town. With distilling they united farming, and were extensive and successful in their agricultural operations before the times of depression set in. About 14 years ago the firm was dissolved by mutual agreement, and Mr William Mitchell then built the large and handsome distillery known as Glengyle, and afterwards purchased Ri-Clachan, in conducting which he has had the help of his sons.
Mr Mitchell was a true man. He could always be depended upon. He was free from all sham and deceit. To trueness of character he united a kind and courteous manner, and wherever he had the opportunity was ready to do a kindness. For many years he was quite a martyr to asthmatic complaint, which often kept him within doors when he would willingly have been out; and when he was able, after a time of confinement, to go the length of the town and meet old friends, it was to him a real enjoyment. For a number of months he has had severe suffering from other illness, and required constant medical attendance. But he bore sore suffering with heroism, not a word of complaint falling from his lips. He passed away quietly on Wednesday, surrounded by his devoted wife and the members of his family. He leaves a widow, two sons, and three daughters.” Campbeltown Courier – Saturday 27th August 1887.
Alfred Barnard paid Glengyle a visit in the 1890s. By then, William’s son, also William, was in charge. The younger Mitchell was unable to meet the journalist but the report still makes for a wonderfully illustrative read. “On our arrival we found much to our chagrin that Mr. Mitchell was away from home, hence our visit was brief and our information concerning this Distillery necessarily somewhat scant. However the Brewer kindly proffered his services which we gladly accepted… In front of the works there is a fine view of cultured gardens, cultivated fields, and hill slopes whose tops are covered with heather. It is a neat and compact place, covering upwards of two acres of ground, and all the buildings are spacious and clean. Fourteen men are employed on the premises. The annual output is 90,000 gallons.”
With the turn of the century, Campbeltown’s whisky industry entered a difficult period that would eventually lead to the closure of all but two distilleries. Glengyle was taken over by West Highland Malt Distilleries Ltd in 1919 but production ceased five years later and all the remaining stocks were sold off in the April of 1925. By some quirk of fate, however, the buildings survived and remained in use, under various guises for many years. Two attempts to revive the distillery came and went without serious action before J&A Mitchell, owner of Springbank, announced that it would breathe new life into the distillery in November of the year 2000.
The new Glengyle’s single malt would bear the name Kilkerran, since the Glengyle name was already in use for a Highland Blended Malt. The new name came from the Gaelic Ceann Loch Cille Chiaran, the original name for the settlement of Campbeltown.
*Full disclosure: the sample featured in this review was sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the dram and the value for money it represents.
The Whisky
Smell: Malty and honeyed. A wee bit gristy with some new oak and a touch of varnish. Straw. Vanilla. Buttercream. Toffee. Digestive biscuits. Also some green fruits like apples and pears with wee touches of lemon citrus.
Taste: Quite a lively, fruity arrival. Canned fruits. Tinned fruit cocktail. Oranges. Apricots. Turns into some peppery, woody spice around the mid-palate. Undercurrent of honey and malt all the way. Increasing oak notes towards the back. Toffee. Soft wisp of peat smoke on the finish. Citrus. Oak. Wee hint of dark chocolate. Black pepper. Notes of orange marmalade and lemon curd.
Thoughts: I always expect an interesting and complex whisky from a J&A Mitchell bottle and this is no different. Quite a light nose with very little in the way of smoke. It’s malty with all the aromas of a single malt’s raw ingredients. I found my sample quite delicate at first but it developed over time and seemed to gain presence the longer it sat in the glass. It takes it’s time to reveal its complexity and slowly builds in flavour intensity. Something I find with many Mitchell’s whiskies, they are simple yet extremely complex. Simple in that they utilise a time-honoured process with no quirky modern flourishes, yet complex in the array of flavours and aromas within the spirit. Their whiskies are an exercise in mastering the basics. Glengyle may technically be a relatively new distillery but this is old fashioned whisky, in the best possible way.
Price: £75. I don’t think there can be many arguments here. Despite being insanely in-demand, Mitchell’s continue to hold firm on their reasonable pricing structure. If only more would follow their lead.
For more about Kilkerran visit here
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